Bad Dog! Good Dog!

Adopting a Shelter or Rescue Dog

2009-12-23T06:59:00.000-08:00

OK, so you've made the choice to adopt a dog instead of getting a puppy. GOOD FOR YOU!

Everybody is quick to tell you "you're saving a life," "you're giving a dog a second chance," etc. and YOU ARE. But, be realistic in that the dog you bring home will most likely have already developed some habits, some good, some bad.

The first 14-16 weeks of a dog’s life is crucial to his adjustment and how he will be as an adult. Depending on what kind of socialization and environment your dog had as a puppy, he or she may have developed some fears and phobias that you will need to work with.

http://www.berkeleyhumane.org/PDFs/Training/Critical_Fear_Periods_in_Puppies.pdf

A dog that has been adopted from a rescue or shelter situation sometimes comes with emotional “baggage” that can take a long time to dissipate. Depending on the severity of the issues, they may never disappear completely. We have a 3 year old female golden rescue who was a “breeder” dog - only used to produce puppies. We have had her since March. When we first brought her home, she low-crawled everywhere. Simple things like a paper grocery bag terrified her. She is getting better, but she still is extremely suspicious and fearful of new things. She does warm up to people, but if they are carrying strange items (such as the bug man with his tank), she shies away.

My point is that it may take time for your dog to develop confidence. It will require patience and understanding on your part, and not to push him to improve faster than he can.

If your dog is fearful of people, when people come over, I would suggest keeping the dog in another room or crated. If these options are not possible, you may want to consider using a tether.

http://www.marinhumanesociety.org/Behavior/Handouts/TieDowns.pdf
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/tethertrain.pdf

In order for the dog to learn to trust you, which will in turn show him that you are in control of things and can protect him, he will need to see you and the other family members as the pack leaders, and he will need to see for himself that you have “his back.”

Obedience training is also a great way to bond with your dog. Depending on your dog’s level of comfort, you may just end up sitting in the class and watching the other dogs from a safe distance.

http://www.marinhumanesociety.org/Behavior/Handouts/PEP.pdf
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/nilif.pdf
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/educated-dog.pdf

The following documents may also be helpful in dealing with some of the fears typically displayed.

http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/fearful-dog.pdf
http://www.hsmo.org/m_obedience/documents/FearfulDogPacket.pdf

Choosing a good dog trainer

2009-12-16T17:25:00.000-08:00

First of all, be informed that ANYONE can call themselves a dog trainer. There is no regulatory agency or professional group that monitors whether people calling themselves trainers are actually capable, have related or necessary experience, have people and dog skills, etc.

The Association of Pet Dog Trainers is an organization that has several levels of membership - Professional, Full, and Associate. The Professional membership requires people to have some type of credentials, such as the CPDT (Certified Professional Dog Trainer); the Associate membership can be anyone interested in the field of dog training, or related professions (such as groomers). So you can see there is a wide latitude even among this organization.

On the website for the APDT, under "How to Choose A Dog Trainer," (http://www.apdt.com/petowners/choose/default.aspx), they have the following statements:

"Dog training has rapidly evolved over the past few decades and it can be confusing for a dog owner new to training to figure out how to hire a dog trainer. The following section is designed to discuss the various methodologies found in dog training today and provide you with information on how to make an informed decision. We strongly encourage you to read through this section before you use our Trainer Search directory to find a trainer near you.
Because APDT is primarily an educational organization for trainers, we allow trainers with all methodologies to join with the goal of exposing them to humane, science-based training methods. However, this does not mean that all trainers in our directory subscribe to this philosophy, and it is your job as a consumer to use the tools we provide in this section to find the right trainer for you and your companion."

On that same page, they also provide the following links:

* Understanding Training Methods
* Why do Trainers Use Food When Training?
* What Do All Those Letters After Everyone's Names Mean?
* An Explanation of APDT Membership Levels
* What are Some of the Common Myths About Dog Training?
* Can I Train My Dog Just Like They Do On TV?
* How to Use the APDT Trainer Search Directory
* What to Expect When Working with a Trainer or Attending a Group Class
* Understanding Training Equipment Options - Collars, Leashes and Crates
* Dominance and Dog Training
* Dominance Myths and Dog Training Realities

Anyone considering hiring someone to help with the training of their dog would be well-advised to read these pages before making their final selection.

The "Trainer Search" (http://www.apdt.com/petowners/ts/default.aspx) permits people to search for a trainer in their area who is a member of the APDT.

Physician, Heal Thyself!

2009-12-01T14:06:00.000-08:00

The way I understand that expression, it means that doctors are always giving advice to their patients on what they need to do to stay healthy - lose weight, quit smoking, exercise more, etc.

Yet there are plenty of physicians who smoke or are overweight. So the expression means, instead of telling "me" what to do, take care of yourself and follow your own advice.

The reason I bring this up is that we are having somewhat of a "housebreaking" dilemma at my house. We have a rescue Golden Retriever that we got in March. Sadie is the sweetest dog. She was a "breeder" dog, used to produce puppies, and as such lived all of her life outside with the other Goldens.

Now she's living indoors and you can tell she loves it. She has been improving every day with her confidence; she was terribly timid at first. She still startles at noises, and is suspicious of new things. If you move sometime from one place to another, she notices, and slinks around until she gets used to it being in the new spot.

I'm perfectly content with her the way she is. She doesn't have to "improve" or prove anything to me. She can be just the way she, with her little quirks, for the rest of her life.

But, I digress....back to the housebreaking issue.

She's done remarkably well, in my opinion, for a dog who peed and pooped outside for the first three years of her life and (probably) never saw the inside of a house. She has never once pooped inside. She does, however, have pee accidents, on the average of one every couple of months or so. And, when she does, they're gushers...huge puddles! And the bad part is, we're never around to see it.

She stays in her crate when everyone is gone, and she's very content in there.

What we're beginning to think is that it's an anxiety thing. As long as someone is around her, she's fine. But if she thinks she's alone in the house (even though there might be someone downstairs or asleep in their bedroom with the door closed), that's when the accidents happen.

As I say, they don't happen often, and we can't correct her if we're not there to witness it. It's just something that I'm hopeful will work itself out - it will either happen sometime when we're with her, and we can interrupt her and rush her outside, or she may eventually grow out of it as she becomes more and more secure living here.

I just thought someone might enjoy knowing that even people to who try to help others with their doggie problems often have problems of their own!

Dog Crates

2009-11-26T15:11:00.000-08:00

The dog crate is a much-underused and misunderstood item. Many people shy away from using one because they think it's "cruel" to keep the dog in a cage all day. Granted, a crate needs to be the PROPER size for the dog. It should be tall enough for the dog to stand up in and large enough that he can turn around it. Using a crate that's too small and cramped for the dog would most certainly constitute cruelty. When using a crate to housetrain a dog or puppy, if it's too large, the dog or puppy may eliminate at one end and sleep at the other. You may need to partition part of the crate off in order to make it the right size, and take the partition out as the dog grows to its full size.

Of course, a crate can be MIS-used; leaving a dog in a crate for more than 8 hours is never recommended. It's not meant to be a substitute for interaction with the family and training.

Having a dog that happily accepts his crate and is content while in there is something every owner should strive for and can achieve, with patience, consistency, and a sense of humor. If there is ever the need to leave your dog overnight with the vet or board him while you're on vacation, it will be much easier on the dog if he's accustomed to spending time in a crate.

By nature, most dogs like the feeling of having something enclose them. It makes them feel safe. Their ancestors made dens and crawled into them. They knew predators could not sneak up on them from behind or above.

Some very good articles on how to use a dog crate are:

http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/crate-train.pdf
http://www.hsmo.org/m_obedience/behavior/dogcrate.html

All I Want For Christmas Is.....A Puppy????

2009-11-18T06:37:00.000-08:00

The holiday season is almost upon us. Thanksgiving's right around the corner, then the Christmas shopping season starts going full-blast.

Many times, one of the items heading those Christmas Wish Lists is a new puppy.

Adding a dog or puppy to your family should be viewed as a life-long commitment. Before making this decision, please be sure you're prepared to make this commitment.

* first research the breed(s) you are considering to see which will fit best into your family's lifestyle.

* remember that the dog will most likely be with you for 10-15 years. Therefore, be sure you are prepared to spend the time and money necessary to provide your dog with the necessary training, a good quality food, and proper veterinary care.

Getting a puppy should be a lengthy decision, one that involves the entire family. It shouldn't be a "surprise" to a family member or a loved one that may not be expecting a pet for a gift. If you decide to buy your aunt and uncle a puppy for Christmas, what happens if they don't want it or aren't prepared to take on the responsibilities of pet ownership that come along with such a gift? Then what becomes of the pup? If it's returned to the place where it was sold, what are its chances of being resold? If you can't return it, where will it go? Will you keep it? Take it to the pound? Or turn it over to rescue? Animal shelters and rescue organizations fill up quite quickly after the holidays are over because of people making these sorts of seemingly thoughtful decisions.

The holidays are a really bad time to bring home a new dog, whether it be a puppy or an adult adopted from a shelter or rescue. Dogs thrive on routine. It makes them feel secure and helps them learn more easily what's expected of them. The stress, chaos, increased activity during the holidays can be detrimental in helping a dog adjust to a new home and family.

So what should you do? You're intent on giving such a wonderful present but don't want it to backfire. Well... here's the solution!

Instead of buying a puppy for your loved one, buy them a bowl, a collar, a leash, and a bag of puppy food and present it along with a "coupon" good for one puppy (of their choosing) at the time of their choosing - at your expense. That way, even if they want to get one at that time, they can wait until the holiday season is over and get the puppy during a more relaxed time period. They can also take their time in choosing the appropriate breed, sex, and size of their dog and it gives them a chance to do the required research into the various breeds. Also, if by chance they aren't ready for a puppy or don't want one, all they have to do is return the bowl and other items - and a puppy doesn't have to needlessly suffer. If they do decide to get a puppy, make sure they read Bringing Puppy Home before they bring the puppy home.

All dogs, regardless of breed, are happiest when they are living inside as members of family - their "pack." Consider this before you decide your dog will be an "outside" dog. Having to live alone outside leads to boredom and frustration on the part of the dog and is often the reason for annoyance barking, fence jumping, and digging in the yard. For additional reasons on why your dog should not have to spend its life in the backyard, visit Dogs Deserve Better.

If a puppy doesn't seem to be the best choice for your loved one, point them in the direction of rescue and have them adopt a dog - that way they get exactly what they want and a dog that really needs a family. If you need help in locating a rescue or shelter in your area, contact me and I'll be more than happy to assist you!

Housebreaking 101

2009-11-17T15:21:00.000-08:00

Due to the amount of emails I receive pertaining to housebreaking, I wanted provide some of the resources I rely on.

If your dog HAD been housebroken and is now starting to have accidents, or if you've been trying all the conventional methods of housebreaking and the dog just doesn't seem to be "getting it,"

be sure to have your vet examine the dog to rule out medical reasons such as urinary infections.

Why your dog "looks" guilty:

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/06/090611065839.htm

After you find the "accident:"

Techniques for modifying behavior:

Crate training is one of the best housebreaking tools you can use. Dogs, like their ancestors, are "denning" animals; they like having a safe place, a den, to sleep in and they do not like eliminating in their sleeping area. However, in order to work correctly, the crate cannot be too large. If that's the case, the dog will eliminate at one end and lay at the other. The crate should only be large enough for the dog to stand up in and turn around in. The crate can also be used throughout the dog's life. If he ever needs to stay overnight at the vet's, he will be accustomed to being in a kennel. If you go on vacation and take him along, his crate will be a familiar place to sleep and a safe place to ride in the car.

Whether your dog is a puppy or an older dog that you obtained from a rescue group or a shelter, housebreaking techniques are pretty much the same. The adopted dog may have been housebroken in its previous home or environment, but that is no guarantee it will be in your home. It will not know which door leads to the outside, what areas of the yard are off-limits, and so forth. You will need to treat this older dog the same way you would a puppy, and supervise him or her as closely.

More than likely, your dog is going to have at least a few accidents. The biggest problem is cleaning up the urine or feces well enough. Dogs' noses are so much keener than ours, they can pick up even the slightest remnant of odor, and in doing so, will be drawn back to the area again. There are many products on the market, in pet stores, that have enzymes that will break down the odors.

In spite of how frustrating it may seem, most housebreaking issues do eventually resolve themself, so be consistent in your routines, be patient, and try to keep a sense of humor!

Teaching "Trade"

2009-11-09T16:59:00.000-08:00

I received the following question from an individual:

"I have an 8 month old male, neutered toy poodle puppy. He is a great dog and gets along great with my 4 kids (ages 7,5,4 and 1) He is very loving. My 1 year old can pull toys and treats out of his mouth and he does nothing. Everything changes when he gets hold of a pair of underwear--it takes forever to catch him and then when we do he growls and has at times bitten me. He gets over it pretty quickly but I need to nip this behavior quickly considering I have 4 little kids."

What I suggested to this lady was to teach her little dog how to "trade."

"Let me answer by first asking a question, about your children, the youngest two in particular. I'm sure you probably have outlet covers over the electrical outlets? Cabinet and drawer locks on those that contain sharp objects or poisonous cleaners? What you are doing is "managing" your child's environment so that they cannot get to those things.

With dogs, we sometimes need to do the same thing. For instance, if my dog always gets into the trash can, I need to either put the can somewhere that he can't get to or find a can with a lid that doesn't come off. Believe me, "managing" the dog's (and child's) environment is a lot easier than trying to watch them constantly. Dogs, and toddlers, are quick and can get into mischief before we know it.

If your dog is getting a hold of underwear (or anything else, for that matter) that you don't want him to have, you'll need to instruct everyone not to leave these items around where the dog can get them. If necessary, close the doors to the rooms.

Now, for the times when he DOES have something that you want to take away, I suggest you teach your dog to "trade." When he has an item, offer him something that he cannot resist in exchange. Have some hunks of string cheese or cut-up hotdogs handy. Show him the tidbit and when he comes over to get it, don't release it until 1) he's dropped the other item and 2) you've picked it up. You can even teach him the name of what you're doing. Say "Let's trade!"

The reason you want to hold onto the treat until you have the other item is that it would be very easy for a dog to drop the item, snatch the food, and then grab the item again and run off. Just be sure whatever you're using to trade is something of really "high value," that is, a food item that he would do ANYTHING for.

Once he has the idea, you can teach your children to do the same."

Dominance and Dog Training

2009-11-05T07:09:00.000-08:00

Association of Pet Dog Trainers

Position Statement

There has been a resurgence in citing "dominance" as a factor in dog behavior and dog-human relationships. This concept is based on outdated wolf studies that have long since been disproven. Contrary to popular belief, research studies of wolves in their natural habitat demonstrate that wolves are not dominated by an "alpha wolf" who is the most aggressive pack member. Rather, wolves operate with a social structure similar to a human family and depend on each other for mutual support to ensure the group's survival.

Dogs are not wolves. The idea that dog behavior can be explained through the application of wolf behavior models is no more relevant than suggesting that chimpanzee behavior can be used to explain the intricacies of human behavior. While wolves and dogs share some similarities in behavior, there are many more significant differences. Dog training and behavior modification strategies that rely primarily on misinterpretations of wolf behavior are therefore irrelevant, ineffective and can lead to serious negative complications.

While dominance is a valid scientific concept, the term "dominance" itself is widely misunderstood, such as when it is used to describe the temperament of a particular dog. Dominance is not a personality trait but a description of a relationship between two or more animals and is related to which animal has access to valued resources such as food, mates, etc. It should not be used in any way to support the belief that dogs are out to "dominate" us, especially as that misunderstanding causes some people to respond with force and aggression. This only serves to create an adversarial relationship filled with miscommunication and even more misunderstanding. The unfortunate result is often anxiety, stress and fear in both dogs and humans towards each other. The use of techniques such as the "alpha roll" on dogs, which is based on these mistaken beliefs about dogs and wolves, has no place in modern dog training and behavior modification. Dogs often respond to this perceived threat with increased fear and aggression, which may serve to make a behavior problem worse and ruin the dog-owner relationship.

The APDT's position is that physical or psychological intimidation hinders effective training and damages the relationship between humans and dogs. Dogs thrive in an environment that provides them with clear structure and communication regarding appropriate behaviors, and one in which their need for mental and physical stimulation is addressed. The APDT advocates training dogs with an emphasis on rewarding desired behaviors and discouraging undesirable behaviors using clear and consistent instructions and avoiding psychological and physical intimidation. Techniques that create a confrontational relationship between dogs and humans are outdated. Modern scientifically-based dog training should emphasize teamwork and a harmonious relationship between dogs and humans that fulfills both species' needs. Most of all, it should be a fun and enjoyable experience for everyone involved.

The Association of Pet Dog Trainers encourages and supports continued trainer education in order to promote gentle, effective, fast, and fun ways to train dogs using the most up-to-date information and sound, scientifically-based methods.

For more information, please see related information on the web site at www.apdt.com.

Alpha VS Leader

2009-11-04T14:19:00.000-08:00

Greenville, SC – May 18, 2009 – The Association of Pet Dog Trainers, the largest professional and educational association for dog trainers in the world, believes that training dogs using positive methods can be a critical part of reducing dog bites in the home and in our communities.

If you are dealing with a dog with aggressive behaviors, the APDT recommends:
Consult with your veterinarian to determine if your dog may have an underlying internal or medical cause that is creating or exacerbating the aggression.

Contact a professional experienced with aggression to work with you and your dog. You can find trainers experienced with aggression listed in the Trainer Search on the APDT web site, www.apdt.com. Only use professionals who use positive methods and are familiar with the science of behavior modification.

Manage your dog’s interactions with household members, especially children, and with strangers while working with a professional to ensure that your dog is not put in a position where he feels he must resort to aggression.

Modifying a behavior problem takes time and effort. Many popular television shows create the illusion that aggression can be cured quickly through techniques based on mental and physical intimidation of the dog. These methods will not alleviate the problem and will likely increase the probability of more bites. Owners with an aggressive dog must realize that solving the problem takes patience, an understanding of your dog’s behavior and needs, and the use of humane training methods.
***************************************************
Many people confuse the term "alpha" with the term "leader." One does not need to be forceful or intimidating in order to be an effective leader. Actions such as the "alpha roll" - contrary to what many think - is NOT a normal form of discipline within a dog or wolf pack. The alpha roll is different from the submissive position a dog or wolf takes in deferrment to its superior. The dog rolls over on its back to demonstrate that it is not a threat. The alpha roll, on the other hand, is what one animal does to another when in a fight. It is not a "correction" or "discipline." It is an AGGRESSIVE action and is not one to attempt with your dog, especially a dog that is having aggression issues of its own.

Two articles that I often recommend can be found at the following website urls:
http://www.marinhumanesociety.org/Behavior/Handouts/PEP.pdf
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/nilif.pdf

The following paragraphs are excerpts from these documents.

“Dogs naturally tend to live in a structured society – with a leader and followers – a family, really. It helps to think of your relationship to your dog as that of a parent to her child. Your dog needs to understand the rules of the household, and to depend on you to take care of him. He needs to know that you are a fair and generous parent. If you don’t take the leadership role, the dog might find himself filling the vacancy, making decisions that are often inappropriate, sometimes even becoming aggressive. This handout will help teach him to enjoy being a member of your family, and to leave the responsibilities of leadership to you.”
“Obeying commands helps build a fearful dog’s confidence; having a strong leader and knowing its place in the hierarchy helps to make the submissive dog feel more secure.”

HEY!!! DON'T PUT YOUR BAD BEHAVIOR ON ME!!

2009-11-01T19:49:00.000-08:00

(Parts reprinted courtesy of the American Humane Society)

So you came home from work and the new dog you got from the pound chewed the leg on one of your kitchen chairs. Well, it's time to show her who's boss, right? And you can't have the dog chewing your house up are while you're gone--that just won't work. So you since dog's so much want to please us, the thing to do is to show your displeasure, right? So you get really mad--you holler, and maybe even hit...surely, this has got to get through to her.

To prevent breaking the bond between us and our pets, we need to understand how our pet thinks so we can change his or her bad habits with a minimum amount of confusion, frustration, or damage.

How Your Pet Thinks
Your dog tips over the kitchen trash can whenever he is left alone. You try scolding and shaking him in front of the mess, but he continues to dump the trash, only now he cowers and has that "guilty" look when you arrive home. Well obviously, you think to yourself, he knows he's doing something wrong, right? No, wrong. The "guilty" looks are submissive postures to show you that he knows you're angry, but he doesn't know why. If you dumped the garbage yourself and then left the house, your dog would have that same "guilty" look when you returned. What your dog understands is that he gets yelled at when you come home to find garbage on the floor. He does not understand that it is the actual act of dumping the garbage that upsets you. The same applies to chewing, scratching, or housesoiling.

This is why punishment is such an impractical and often damaging way of training your pet. Punishment makes your pet fear you and sometimes forces him or her to become aggressive, and it does not necessarily make for an obedient pet.

For correction to be effective, you have to catch your pet in the act and the correction has to be strong enough to make him or her stop after only a few times. Animals have no long-term memory for things like "yesterday, I pulled the garbage out of the can and got in big trouble for that, so I better not do that again." They are truly creatures of the moment. Animals are also extremely intuitive and are sponges for our "bad vibes." If you continue to react angrily toward your pet, trust will be broken and the animal's fear of you will take hold.

How To Change Your Pet's Behavior
Even though pets are not people, we do share a preference for pleasant things. Humans and animals alike catch on very quickly if rewarded. If you stop scaring or hurting your pet when she does something wrong and start rewarding her every time she does something right, you will see a definite difference.

Be sure not to make the behavior worse by using positive reinforcement in the wrong situation. If you console your pet while he is acting afraid of people or noise, he will think you are rewarding him for being scared.

As with most pet-and-owner problems, your pet is probably doing a perfectly normal behavior, like urinating or barking, but in the wrong place or at the wrong time. You first have to determine why your pet is doing it and encourage her to it some place else or at another time.

Punishing your dog when he sniffs or licks at the baby can teach the dog to: be afraid of the baby because bad things happen to him when the baby is around; he could become aggressive toward the baby because he fears the baby; or he could do something like barking to get your attention away from the baby and directed toward him. Instead of punishment, try the following: teach your dog to sit and lie down using food rewards or tell him to obey these commands around the baby in return for a chew bone, snack, and/or petting.

Guilty Until Proven Innocent!

2009-10-24T08:54:00.001-07:00

Science News

What Really Prompts The Dog's 'Guilty Look'

ScienceDaily (June 14, 2009) — What dog owner has not come home to a broken vase or other valuable items and a guilty-looking dog slouching around the house? By ingeniously setting up conditions where the owner was misinformed as to whether their dog had really committed an offense, Alexandra Horowitz, Assistant Professor from Barnard College in New York, uncovered the origins of the “guilty look” in dogs in the recently published “Canine Behaviour and Cognition” Special Issue of Elsevier’s Behavioural Processes.

Horowitz was able to show that the human tendency to attribute a “guilty look” to a dog was not due to whether the dog was indeed guilty. Instead, people see ‘guilt’ in a dog’s body language when they believe the dog has done something it shouldn’t have – even if the dog is in fact completely innocent of any offense.

During the study, owners were asked to leave the room after ordering their dogs not to eat a tasty treat. While the owner was away, Horowitz gave some of the dogs this forbidden treat before asking the owners back into the room. In some trials the owners were told that their dog had eaten the forbidden treat; in others, they were told their dog had behaved properly and left the treat alone. What the owners were told, however, often did not correlate with reality.

Whether the dogs' demeanor included elements of the "guilty look" had little to do with whether the dogs had actually eaten the forbidden treat or not. Dogs looked most “guilty” if they were admonished by their owners for eating the treat. In fact, dogs that had been obedient and had not eaten the treat, but were scolded by their (misinformed) owners, looked more “guilty” than those that had, in fact, eaten the treat. Thus the dog’s guilty look is a response to the owner’s behavior, and not necessarily indicative of any appreciation of its own misdeeds.

This study sheds new light on the natural human tendency to interpret animal behavior in human terms. Anthropomorphisms compare animal behavior to human behavior, and if there is some superficial similarity, then the animal behavior will be interpreted in the same terms as superficially similar human actions. This can include the attribution of higher-order emotions such as guilt or remorse to the animal.

The editor of the special issue, Clive D.L. Wynne of the Department of Psychology, University of Florida, explained, “this is a remarkably powerful demonstration of the need for careful experimental designs if we are to understand the human-dog relationship and not just reify our natural prejudices about animal behavior.” He pointed out that dogs are the oldest domesticated species and have a uniquely intimate role in the lives of millions of people. Recent research on dogs has indicated more human-like forms of reasoning about what people know than has been demonstrated even in chimpanzees.

Journal reference:

1. Horowitz et al. Disambiguating the 'guilty look';: Salient prompts to a familiar dog behaviour. Behavioural Processes, 2009; 81 (3): 447 DOI: 10.1016/j.beproc.2009.03.014

Adapted from materials provided by Elsevier, via AlphaGalileo

Stop Doing That!!

2009-10-23T16:56:00.001-07:00

Let's talk a little bit about punishment again.

If my dog does something "bad" and I swat him with the paper, he may understand that I don't approve of what he's done. But what he DOESN'T understand is what behavior I DO want him to perform. Let's say I come in the room and find him chewing on my favorite slippers. If all I do is punish him, I'm not doing a good job as a responsible pet owner. What I need to do is show him what I consider proper behavior. I need to provide him with an "alternate" behavior, something that is GOOD to do instead of the thing that is BAD to do.

Instead of punishing him, what I would do is interrupt his behavior, either with a clap of the hands, a "rattle" can, or a loud "Ah Ah!!!" Then when he stops and looks at me, I give him a dog toy or chew bone - I show him the appropriate items he CAN chew on.

A smart dog owner also knows the value of "managing" the environment. If my dog has a fetish for my slippers, and I've tried and tried to teach him not to chew on them, then I would need to find a place to keep my slippers that he cannot reach. If my dog always gets into the trash can, I need to put the can behind a closet door or find a can that has a secure lid that cannot be opened easily.

Another form of punishment can simply be the act of not giving your dog what he is seeking. Say your dog has an annoying habit of nudging your arm so that you will pet him. If your response has always been to reach over and scratch his ears or pat his head, then you have been providing "reinforcement" for his behavior.

If you stop giving him the reward he's been seeking and rather sit there and ignore his nudgings, you will be working toward "extinguishing" his habit. I will caution you that you will need to be steadfast in your determination and not give in. If you do, you have just provided him with "random reinforcement." Dogs can be VERY persistant. If you are trying to break a habit like this, you will need to be even MORE determined in not petting him.

My next entry will address those who claim they can tell when their dog has done something bad because of his "guilty" look.

Communication

2009-10-22T07:06:00.000-07:00

Communication and punishment are connected in my opinion. After all, if my dog isn't understanding what I want (lack of communication), how can I in fairness punish him for not doing it?

The following is an excerpt from "He Just Wants to Say Hi!" by Suzanne Clothier:

*********************************************************************
Sitting quietly on the mall bench beside my husband, I was minding my own business
when the man approached. I glanced up as the man sat next to me. He was a bit close for
my comfort, so I edged a little closer to my husband who, busy reading a book, ignored
me. Still feeling a bit uncomfortable with the strange man so close, I then turned my
head slightly away from him, politely indicating I was not interested in any interaction.
To my horror, the man leaned over me and began licking my neck while rudely groping
me.
When I screamed and pushed him away, my trouble really began. My husband angrily
threw me to the ground, yelling at me "Why did you do that? He was only trying to be
friendly and say hi! What a touchy bitch you are! You're going to have to learn to behave
better in public."
People all around us stared and shook their heads sadly. I heard a few murmuring that
they thought my husband should do something about my behavior; some even
mentioned that he shouldn't have such a violent woman out in public until I'd been
trained better. As my husband dragged me to the car, I noticed that the man who had
groped me had gone a bit further down the mall and was doing the same thing to other
women.
This is a silly scenario, isn't it? First, anyone who knows me knows that I would never be
in a mall except under considerable duress. More seriously, no rational human being
would consider my response to the man's rudeness as inappropriate or vicious. By
invading my personal space, the man crossed the lines of decent, civilized behavior; my
response would be considered quite justified.
That my husband might punish me for responding to such rudeness by screaming and
pushing the offender away is perhaps the most ridiculous aspect of this scenario. If he
were to act in this way, there would be no doubt in the minds of even the most casual
observers that his ego was of far greater importance than my safety or comfort, and that
he was sorely lacking even rudimentary empathy for how I might be feeling in this
situation.
Fortunately for me, this scenario is completely imaginary. Unfortunately for many dogs,
it is a very real scenario that is repeated far too often. Inevitably, as the owners who have
allowed their dogs to act rudely retreat from the situation, there are comments made
about "that aggressive dog" (meaning the dog whose space had been invaded) and the
classic comment, usually said in hurt tones, "He only wanted to say hi!"
*****************************************************************************

Dogs communicate primarily with BODY LANGUAGE. They do make vocalizations, but most of the time, their face, eyes, ears, tails, posture, even the hairs on their back, can tell us what they are feeling if we take the time to really look at them. There is often in many dog/owner relationships a lack of the owner really understanding what the dog is trying to "say." People have body language as well, but most of our communication is done with words.

So, how do create an atmosphere where two different species can live in harmony under one roof? Well, we are obviously the species with the larger brain.....right?????? So it's our job to find a way the dog understands, not the other way around.

To that end, we need to keep our verbalizations short and simple. Instead of telling the dog, "Come over here and sit down," break the request into simple statements. Teach him "come," and "sit."

It is believed that dogs can learn around 200 different commands, but they have trouble differentiating when we use one word to mean two or more different things. For instance, take the word "down." It should mean EITHER lay down, get down (off the sofa, chair, me), or some other desired action. Your dog will only be confused if you say "down" when you want him prone on the floor and "down" when you want him to remove himself from the furniture and "down" when you want him to stop jumping up on you.

Bad Dog!

2009-10-21T12:20:00.000-07:00

Obviously, no dog does exactly what the owner wants 100% of the time. So, what do you do when your dog does something you DON'T want it to do? Do you yell? Do you swat it with a newspaper? Do you shove him into his dog crate?
These forms of punishment do not work. Why? Because your dog is from another planet. No, really, he's not, but he might as well be. He doesn't speak your language, and you don't speak his, so how is he going to know what you want him to do or why you're mad at him? Dogs aren't born into this world with some sort of gift of telepathy to be able to understand human beings.

The only thing that will be accomplished with physical punishment is that you will damage the bond of trust between you and your dog and make him fearful of you. The more fearful a dog is, the greater the chance that he may bite.

I'll present some alternatives to physical punishment in my next entry.

Here we go!

2009-10-21T08:01:00.000-07:00

I think there must be a lot of reasons why a person would create a blog. Some must think of it as an online diary. Some, like me, are hoping it will help someone else. I would THINK, when creating a blog, that the subject matter would either be something you are familiar with, that you have some knowledge of the subject, or at least are trying to LEARN about the subject matter.

In my case, it's both. There are two things in my life that I feel I "know" pretty well, but I maintain the attitude that there is always something new to learn. One is secretarial work. That's all I've done for the past 40 years.

The other is dogs. I've loved animals, especially dogs, for as long as I can remember. When I was young, I used to crawl around the house, pretending to be a dog. When I was a little older, my only playmate was my Beagle. We lived on a street that had no other kids, so Skippy was my "horse" and I was the cow-girl with the guns and holsters. Obviously, I didn't really RIDE her, but in my imagination, she was a loyal and trusty steed.

Years went by. I was on my second marriage, had two kids, a husband, a house in the suburbs.

Then in 1993, my husband, son, daughter, and I decided to get a Golden Retriever - Stardust Daisy Mae. She came from a line bred to do what the retriever was intended to do. She had great drive and was really, really smart. I got involved in the local Golden Retriever club, started obedience training, became a volunteer with one of the Golden Retriever rescue groups, joined a training club. Eventually I began teaching classes for the training club and doing private in-home training.

What I hope to do with "my" blog is to cover specific training and behavior problems. Each post, or series of posts, will deal with a specific issue, like jumping up on people. Depending on what's involved, or if there are questions or comments, the suggested solution(s) will be delivered in one or more blog entries.

I feel I've had a good deal of experience helping people train their dogs, but I also feel I still have a lot to learn. To this end, I take advantage of as many opportunities as I can to further my knowledge. I have attended presentations by some of the best-known names in the training world - Patricia McConnell, Lesley Nelson, Cesar Millan, and most recently, Karen Pryor.